FAREWELL NEW ZEALAND

Wow, time flies when you are having fun! We have been in Australia for 3 weeks and I’m trying to wrap up New Zealand. Fox Glacier proved to be spectacular with a little added adventure bonus. We left the van lights on in the car park. This shouldn’t be an adventure in and of itself, after all the van company did give us a set of jumper cables. However, we couldn’t find the battery. Nope. It wasn’t under the passenger seat where the engine was located. There were no compartments on the front of the van to open. We peeled carpet back, scratched our heads and even asked nice gentlemen walking past the van. No one could find the battery! The nice Englishmen and their wives offered to give us a lift into town and dropped us at a service station. We explained our situation to the mechanic who just grinned back at us. Ryan said “I bet this is not the first time this has happened.” The mechanic replied with a grin, “Well, it is the first time today!’’ The mechanic drove us back to the glacier and in less than a minute he located the battery behind the drivers seat, under the carpet and below a metal plate that was clipped into place. The van started in no time and we were off!

The next day we had an incredible guided hike on the Franz Josef Glacier with crampons and all! It was incredible to get up close and personal with Franz, but also terribly unnerving! There is no feeling like standing high up on a glacier looking down into it’s cascading depths while trying to walk with your toes pointed down hill on the slippery cool surface without lines or ropes. Other parts of the glacier were cut with stairs to climb and ropes to hold onto in “dangerous” areas. We told ourselves that this downhill slope must not be “dangerous” because it did not have ropes to hold onto. But, you could not help feeling that if you slipped, that was it. Down you went to dance with Franz.

The day on the glacier was fantastic and we finished it off with a soak in the glacial waters hot springs. Yes, this is counterintuitive, so we had to ask. The freezing cold glacial water is heated to a steamy 39-40 degrees Celsius. We soaked our wounds and felt like new people ready to greet the next adventure!

We made a mad dash for Abel Tasman National Park famous for it’s sparkling turquoise blue water, fantastic hiking and tranquil kayaking. Our one day of hiking offered birds eye views of the many bays dotted along the coast as we weaved in and out of the dense forest. At the end of the hike we were greeted by the tranquil ocean waters that lapped us up leaving us refreshed. The following day, as the Easterly blew in, our hopes for tranquil kayaking dissipated. The rain pounded, the wind howled and the white caps frothed. No kayaking for this crew. By the next day, the seas were still too rough and we said goodbye to Abel with promises to return another day.

Back to the North Island via ferry crossing we went with short visits with Jodi’s family, again. This time we got to have a lovely lunch with Jodi’s Granddad Laurie. A fascinating and loving man who shared tales of travels, lessons learned and days gone by. What a joy it was to spend time with him!

The Coromandel was our next stop and never a dull moment did we have. Hot Water Beach, a place where geothermal water bubbles up from the depths to create boiling sand. You can dig a hole in the beach as the tide goes out and have your very own hot tub with an expansive view of the ocean. Fascinating! There were 70 year old men in Speedos running around giggling like school children! We also enjoyed a walk to Cathedral Cove, a beautiful rock arch by the ocean.

Our time in New Zealand closed with a little drama after the van key broke off in the driver side door and we did not have a spare set of keys. After a locksmith extracted the key from the lock, made another key that did not work and modified the key in the motor camp with my metal nail file we were driving back to Auckland to fly to Australia. Farwell New Zealand, we will be back!

Our Photos: http://picasaweb.google.com.au/kelloffj/NewZealandAlbum3?authkey=Gv1sRgCNrAlcCz8KelDQ&feat=email#

15 OTHER THINGS LEARNED IN NEW ZEALAND

1. Grocery stores sell VERY large chickens. I wonder if you can buy dresses for them, too?

2. There is no “tooting” near national monuments.

3. While driving on a major highway you may find yourself on a single lane bridge with train tracks running down the middle and you are giving way (yielding) to a train! (thanks for the reminder Sharon)

4. Taking a tramp in the bush means taking a hike in the woods/forest.

5. On the North Island, grazing sheep run frightened from cars that drive by their fenced in pastures.

6. Visiting the Galapagos Islands and standing a couple feet from the animals has ruined all other animal encounters.

7. When a brochure says an activity is appropriate “for most agile people,” they really mean you better be able to run a marathon, scale a mountain and walk on water in order to participate.

8. If you are barefooted in the supermarket, no one thinks twice about it.

9. New Zealand has 2 of only 3 glaciers in the world that are located in a rainforest (the other is in Patagonia).

10. Heaps = a lot. For example, New Zealand has heaps of nice people.

11. Tip Top is the best ice cream ever! Favorites are Passion Fruit and Gooey Gooey Gum Drop.

12. Sand flies at Milford Sound are vicious.

13. 70 year old New Zealand’ers rent Wicked Vans to travel in, too (they were given an AC/DC van and had to ask someone at the motor camp to play the band on their iPod because they had no idea who the band was).

14. Roads are straighter on the South Island.

15. New Zealand just maybe the most beautiful country in the world!

UNISEX BATHROOMS ARE WEIRD

(Based on real-life experiences at a motor camp in Te Anau, New Zealand)

Don’t get me wrong, I’m the first girl to jump into the boys one-seater bathroom when the women’s line is 6 feet deep. The concept of a free for all for the loo makes sense to me. But, the concept of commingling numerous toilets and showers in one unisex location is just weird. I can’t shake the feeling that some Peeping Tom is lurking around the corner waiting for a show from some innocent Betty who forgets she is in a unisex bathroom.

It is weird to hear toilet noises from a complete stranger of the opposite sex. We’ve become accustom to sharing facilities with strangers of our own sex. But, a complete stranger of the other sex…….weird! Men, let me put it into perspective for you. You are in the loo, you hear quite a production going on in the stall next to you. Joe Bob walks out, no problem. Gorgeous svelte Betty walks out of the stall…..weird!

Sure I could put my grown up adult hat on and say “it’s great.” After all I have had to say “nuts” to a 12 year old boy in the ER with a straight face. But, when I’m standing at the hand dryer near the door and a 60 year old man walks in, sees me and at first has a look of sheer terror on his face because he thinks that he has just walked into the wrong bathroom, I say weird! Or, when you are brushing your teeth next to the 22 year old stranger shaving his face and neither of you can make eye contact, I say weird!

So, to Tom the Peeper, no peeping here because my husband is in the next stall!

NEW ZEALAND: SOUTH ISLAND UPDATE

We arrived to the South Island by car ferry and enjoyed a fabulous wine tour compliments of Kash and Jodi. The wine tour company, Bubbly Grape, uses the slogan “We’ll Drive You To Drink!” Kash and Jodi thought it was fitting for our drunk van and we agree! We had a great time!

Kaikoura was our next stop via a road side stand selling fresh Cray Fish aka LOBSTER! We ate fresh lobster (only out of the ocean 4 hours before it hit our bellies)! The first one was so good that we had to have a second. Oh, and we had a side of green lipped mussels steamed in a garlic white wine sauce to go with it, too. Kaikoura proved to be outstanding with its gorgeous coastline and tall mountains. We saw three sperm whales, orcas and a blue shark on our whale watching tour. Later the same day when we hiked along the coast line we spotted a ray in the crystal clear water, sea lions galore and more orcas frolicking about.

After such a tough day, we headed to Hanmer Springs to soak in the natural hot springs. Ahhhhhhhhhh…….it was lovely! From Hanmer we drove through Christchurch and onto a winding little road (with a stretch of gravel road that caused a flash back to Peru) along the coast to the Banks Peninsula. We snuggled in for the rainy night in a remote little place called Okains Bay (remote except for the few other campers and sheep). The van did not float away or get washed into the ocean and the next day we drove to Akaroa. From Akaroa we drove back to Christchurch via Little River (with a great café and art gallery) and Birdlings Flat (a stretch of powerful crashing ocean surf).

In Christchurch we were greeted by Jodi’s friends Jacinda, Rich and their beautiful children. They were gracious hosts and even shared the Day of Love with us complete with a special pancake breakfast and chocolate cake! We saw the Coast to Coast Race finish in Christchurch which involves running, kayaking and cycling from the west to east coast of the South Island. The top competitors complete the 243 km race in 10 hours 45 minutes. Here is the link if you want to learn more about the race: http://www.coasttocoast.co.nz/

A lovely hike at Mount Cook was next followed by a trip to Stewart Island. We were blessed with a beautiful day to hike on Stewart Island, but then the rain set in for the remainder of our time. The ferry ride back to the South Island was quite an adventure and instead of beer lined up on the bar the crew actually had vomit bags. Luckily neither of us filled one, but you had to keep a steady eye gazing outside or else images of retching souls would fill your head.

The rain continued and has followed us for four days now. Our time in Milford Sound was drizzly and cold. We were sad that we did not get to see the spectacular sunny views, but we did get to see a mysterious misty version of the Sound and were graced with hundreds of waterfalls cascading down the mountain sides.

Tonight we arrived at the glaciers (Franz Josef and Fox) and got a glimpse of a starry sky. We are looking forward to the Sun and a dry van!

More photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kelloffj/NewZealand2009Album2?authkey=ySEwE-GO3jg&feat=email#

NEW ZEALAND: NORTH ISLAND UPDATE

Our first two weeks were spent traveling around the lovely North Island. We were greeted in the wee hours of the morning by Jodi’s Dad (Colin) and Step-Mum (Elizabeth). They played tour guides and chauffeurs for several days. Together we enjoyed picnics on the beach, yummy meals, and seeing the Auckland Regatta to name a few! Colin taught Ryan how to drive on the other side of the road and provided moral support when we picked up our “Drunk” van. We trotted off into the wild blue yonder north of Auckland to the Bay of Islands (Tutukaka, Russell, Pahia). Kaitaia was our next stop and we traveled to Cape Reinga the northern most point in New Zealand. The Cape was incredible with a beautiful lighthouse and turbulent waters where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet. On our way to Matakohe we walked through the ancient Kauri Forests. The oldest living Kauri Trees are 1200-2000 years old. We held court with the mighty Tane Mahuta (the largest living Kauri tree at 51 meters tall) and Te Matua Ngahere (the widest living Kauri at 16.4 meters wide). We made a return visit to Waitomo to walk through the forest at night and view the glow worms lit up the mountain side (blue twinkling lights…..beautiful!). New Plymouth brought more beautiful coast and a hike up part of Mount Taranaki. A driving adventure across the Forgotten Highway took us through Whangamomona the only republic in New Zealand. We spent the night in Ohakune and drove into Wellington the next day. We were greeted in Wellington by Jodi’s Mum (Annette) and Noel who helped us make a great itinerary for touring the South Island. We enjoyed a great night out with them, a walk on the beach, learning the rules of a cricket match, shopping and strawberries from the garden! Did I mention a real comfy bed and indoor toilet, too!

Ryan and Jen

South Island update to come soon!.......

15 THINGS WE’VE LEARNED IN NEW ZEALAND

1. 100 km/h signs are there to taunt you on the winding roads.
2. Trees can be 13 meters in diameter.
3. Kash is a saint for driving us the entire time we were in New Zealand a year ago.
4. Bugs are like missiles on the windshield, they thump but don’t splatter.
5. Monkey Business is banana and chocolate chip ice cream.
6. Well equipped buses use the beach as a highway.
7. Glow worms are glowing larvae poop.
8. A road in NZ only needs two lanes to be called a highway.
9. The forest looks like Jurassic Park. There could be a dinosaur charging through any minute.
10. A chilly bin is a cooler.
11. Togs are men’s swim shorts.
12. Jangles are flip-flops.
13. Up hill max speed 50 km/h. Down hill max speed 80 km/h. Any faster than that and the van wants to fly!
14. People treat you differently if you are a woman wearing a hippie bandana over your hair.
15. Kiwi hospitality is great! We love our Sister-In-Law’s Family!

To see our photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kelloffj/NewZealand2009Album1?authkey=smm345S94b4&feat=email#

HOME SWEET HOME

You are looking at our home in New Zealand for the next 6 weeks! New Zealand is known for its incredible scenery EVERYWHERE, so we decided that a camper van was the way to travel. “Wicked Vans” are famous for their colorful paint jobs (smiley faces and peace signs) and “wise” sayings painted on the back (if a man is wrong and there isn’t a woman to hear him is he really wrong? Or, the answer to the world’s problems: get the hungry to eat the homeless). Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed when we picked up our van and it was lacking a bit in the “wisdom” department. Painted on the side is “Town Drunk” in “graffiti from the hood style.” On the back it says “A town drunk with all that alky funk.” I really wanted the van with monkeys painted all over it and one big gorilla on the back that said, “If you’re going to be a monkey, you might as well be a bloody Gorilla.” But, I guess I should count my blessings that we did not get the van parked next to ours that was covered with bare chested cartoon women ( I couldn’t even bring myself to look for any wisdom on the rear of that van)!

Given my disappointment, I thought it best to search the Universe to find out why we were given this van. Hmm…..could it be because I recently invented the “Blue Goose” (Grey Goose Martini with blue cheese stuffed olives minus the olives)? Or, that our friend Audrey gave us the largest bottle of Grey Goose ever made as a “consumable” Christmas gift (consumable is important when you don’t have a house)? Maybe it is because my Mother-In-Law, Judi, designated me the Pomegranate Martini Bartender over the holidays? Could it be because our storage pod is half filled with every type of glassware imaginable? Hmm…could it really be that we are supposed to relax, kick-back and have an incredible time traveling! Well, we’ll give it a shot! CHEERS to our New Zealand adventures!

P.S. We will post the photos and blog from Chile and Argentina when we think of something snappy to say :)

P.P.S. Joe is in Australia because he was afraid to cuddle with us in our van! Smart man!